Article By: Michele Custovic
The conversation has become hollow
We have now gotten used to talking about sustainability and our resources on earth are running out. As the discourse and sustainability, the movement has increased companies are also gradually forced to act ethically right.
However, do companies care about sustainability at all and do they want to improve their processes? Or is it just another trend boosting their image on social media and greed for increasing profit? Furthermore, sustainable actions can also be a result of forced action from government regulations.
Staying? or Just Another Trend?
I wish to explore sustainability in Fashion, what motivation firms have to be sustainable and why. Furthermore, how can this be seen in their social media representation? This post seeks to give you an insight and understanding of possible motives firms might have with sustainability. As well as achieve a better understanding of sustainability is just used as a trend and image rather than a serious agenda. (from https://goodfair.com/blogs/nonewthings/sustainability-in-fashion-here-to-stay-or-just-another-trend)
Consumer involvement and purchase decisions
Consumers have also become more aware of sustainability and may choose to avoid buying from companies is they don’t have a responsible sustainable approach and ethics. It is also not uncommon to see in consumers research and purchase decisions that sustainability does play a role, but is not final (Cone Communications (2013), “2013 Cone CommunicationsSocial Impact Study,”www.conecomm.com).
However, companies are good at promoting what sustainable actions and improvement they make so customers are aware. Fashion firms in the BTC market as H&M, Zara, NA-KD etc. that promote fast fashion are especially good at marketing their products on social media. Attracting customers with their various options of trendy clothing and apparently also in a somewhat degree of sustainability (Here are an illustration of customer behaviour in purchase decisions).
Ways of measuring sustainability
Sustainability is broad and covers many areas as Blenkhorn and Mackenzie (Categorizing corporate social responsibility (CSR) initiatives in B2B markets: the why, when and how af Blenkhorn, David L; MacKenzie, H.F. (Herb) 2017 ) depicts in their article companies use of sustainability can be measured in three ways within two frames. The CSR behaviour range from government regulations, competitive advantage, to altruism. Just imagine the green paper boat represent the lead in sustainability (from https://www.ing.com/Newsroom/News/Introducing-the-worlds-first-sustainability-improvement-derivative.htm)
Survival strategy
A company must either pollute less or recycle more. Polluting less can be achieved by using less energy, or cleaner sources of energy and by using fewer, safer or more sustainable materials throughout their production processes or manufactured products. These are constructed out of a continuum of analyzed motivations of why a firm would want to become more sustainable (Blenkhorn and Mackenzie 2017).
Companies that use sustainability
H&M is a global known fashion firm with cheap clothes in various styles. Throughout the years H&M has made sustainable actions through their collection “Conscience” where they recycle clothes and materials, as a customer you can recycle clothes by filling a bag up with old and unwanted clothes and delivering them to H&M in exchange for a coupon to buy new clothes in their stores.
It's discovered that A Swedish power-plant aims to eliminate the use of fossil fuels by 2020 by taking to burning recycled wood and garbage—including clothes from H&M’s central warehouse (from https://qz.com/1138035/a-swedish-power-plant-is-burning-discarded-hm-clothes-for-fuel/)
The paradox
However, it is paradoxical that H&M was in a serious scandal a few years ago where it was discovered that they also burned several tons of clothing (https://nyheder.tv2.dk/samfund/2017-11-23).
- Recycle your clothes elsewhere or let H&M burn them?
When interviewed and asked why?
They simply responded, "it contained unapproved levels of chemicals, mould and faulty items that were not safe to be sold or used."
After an examination of some of the clothing pieces, the items only contained high chemicals in the label on some jeans, and no mould to be found (https://nyheder.tv2.dk/samfund/2017-10-16-hm-derfor-blev-bukserne-braendt). In their report, they never concluded the tests made on the clothes. So, you can recycle your clothes elsewhere or let H&M burn them (in the pic you see a Meme on companies burning clothes. But don't just focus on H&M, the company Bestseller is also mentioned among the fashion giants that burn clothes. Makes me wonder how important sustainability is to these companies despite their sustainable actions. Why are there so many chemicals in the clothing in the first place? Couldn’t they test the clothing before shipping it across the globe?
Verdict
Sustainability is not only about having a great image outward to gain more profit. It is about achieving the goals and improve the whole firms’ practices. There are many marketing tools that can be used to measure goals and structure new ways for a firm to operate. H&M is acknowledged for its sustainable approach and actions, however, their image and position become doubtful when it is discovered they also burn clothes. The firm states they do sell all their clothing, but H&M is a fast-fashion company which means they almost must have an overproduction of clothing. That probably can’t be sold even on their many sales throughout the year.
Even though they state that they recycle their clothes and customers' clothing, the statement lacks credibility based on their actual actions. Sadly, the firm hasn’t suffered any consequences of their actions. Many customers also forget scandals fast and continue to buy from fast fashion companies regardless of their doubtful sustainability credibility. At last, their clothes are cheap, trendy and comes in many various styles. While other customers might boycott the brand. Therefore, it can also be concluded that companies’ sustainability approach and the image is not paramount for all customer's purchase decisions.
Personally
I hope this was an interesting read! This is simply small research on a blog post, of course, further research will be necessary in order to discover and understand all elements that might affect firms and their decisions on sustainability and social media representation.
Article By: Michele Custovic